I did just post today, and am procrastinating studying. And seeing as I CAN'T FREAKIN LEAVE MY HOUSE (see prev post), I will go back to unfinished Paris stories.
Recall that we are on Day 3 of Paris trip, which is day 13 or so of total trip. Am sick, which explains the tone in the beginning. Also, know that none of these photos from the museums do the real art ANY justice. Go see them yourself. Go.AND I'M WEARING CLOTHES, I'LL HAVE YOU KNOW. --Ed.laundromat on rue de Chenin Vert
I woke up homesick today. I laid in bed not looking forward to struggling with language. I wanted to go downstairs and say, "Pardon me, sir, but I have two strange insect-like bites on my arms and I am curious as to whether it is the work of bedbugs. As I lay awake last night because my skin itself was crawling with the thought and though my fear may be completely irrational as well as unfounded, I would regardless like to inquire as to whether there are other accomodations."
But my French is much more CroMagnon. Un = oooohn Vingt = Fawnnng
French is too much phlegm. I don't know why people think it's a beautiful langague. Too much nose, too much drool, too much spit.
I lay there in my bed, which may or may not have a bedbug infestation and thought about this. I looked under the matress and found no evidence of bugs. I pull up the sheet. I had no bedboard, but if I'd had one, I would have looked there, too. No bugs.
Since I had no proof whatsoever that the marks on my arms are bedbug bites, I decide that I am being a whiny bitch and should just get up for the day.
I still wanted bottomless cheap cuppa terrible coffee and a plate of eggs and unsnobby cheese and salsa and wheat toast at Pete's on Colfax. Maybe hashbrowns.
I want clean jeans. In my entire afternoon of shopping yesterday in the effort to avoid having to do laundry, I find nothing I'd wear. So. Laundry. Yay for me, there's one up the street.
So with my little dictionary, I look up words. I use my dizionario in Italia very little, because I have enough to get by and use context. In French, "charger" is "load" and "lessive" is "detergent". The detergent dispenser was too mysterious, and when I asked a nice woman who spoke no English how to use it, her expression said, "Oh, well, it looks busted." She gave me that Gallic shrug. The one that means everything and nothing. But she did shake her head and look at me with pity. Nicely.
Next adventure: buy detergent. There's a supermarche next door. Bien. I am armed with my dictionary. I find cleaning supplies. I don't really want a jug of detergent that I will use 50mLs of, so I go with the tablets, the smallest box (18 count). I stand in line with others, grumpy about the ...density...of personal space in Europe. Think about my egomaniacal manifest-destiny-space-sense of typical entitled American. Still think the person behind me needs to Step The Fuck Back. I pay. I have nothing smaller than a E20, so I shrug Gallicly and nicely. I feel evil and passive-aggressive doing so. I don't care.
Vado a lavanderia. Because I know how to say that without looking it up in Italian.
In the whatever the word for this damn place is in French, I find that I bought tablets with bleach.
Merde.
I will go back and beg to switch. I find tablets that I think are detergent and not simply the fabric softener. I look as piteous as I possibly can (not difficult). The checkout girl sees and recognizes me. I point to the word "blanc", printed plain as day and not in small print on the box I'd bought. I say, "j'ai coloeur" Actually, I said, "Zhyai koh-lurh" but pointing to my black socks made the point that my grunting likely did not.
She takes pity on me. Great! She said some words but the gestures said, "You want exchange?" I nod pathetically. She was kind. I pointed to the prices and gave her a dime. She called her supervisor, who was (I guess) needed to make the exchange.
A (dense of personal space) line behind me of no less than seven aging French women glower at me. The one behind me had the very best glower. She wore a caramel-and-cream colored fur coat, which matched her hair, that color of cornsilk old blonde. But the coat looked soft and furry and was probably beloved of some animal who grew it, and her hair was wiry and up in many bobby pins. Her large tortoiseshell glasses offset the saggy jowls and pinched lips.
I smiled sheepishly.
Dumb blonde American that I am. Who really just wants her lousy cuppa in a chipped Pete's mug. And who has no intention of EVER letting her hair go that color.
The supervisor arrived and I took my job at looking helpless very seriously. Rapid fire French ensued between them. I proffered my dime. I bowed in a little half-Namaste and said "Merci beaucoup."
Great! Back to the ...what is it....lavarie.
I put my clothes in #12 because it's my lucky number. I choose my temperature in Celsius...er...somethin less than 37 degrees cos that's people temperature...um...yeah, let's just pick B. I have enough Euro ofr a 7kg load. I have no idea how many kilos my clothes are, but it looks like it'll fit. I toss in the maybe detergent, maybe with fabric softener and I push button 12. And several other buttons on the washer for good measure. One of the buttons -- couldn't tell you which -- makes it go. I jump and clap. Look at my clothes getting all cleaned! Or at least fabric-softened!
I decide to get cafe, but not go far. Up the way is a boulain...whatever. Something bread. No coffee, but I choose un pain du chocolat and return with my treasure.
It is divine. Light and buttery and just enough but not too much chocolate. Flaky.
It is sublime. And I am thinking that this is what I came to Paris for. And you know what else? As I'm experiencing my laundry sturm and drang, I notice four young women doing sketches of the street. With 4 or 6B pencils. I think that Hemingway's Paris still exists. Toulouse-Lautrec's Paris is still here. It has Coca Cola now. And it's easier for a vegetarian to eat fine good Indian, Chinese, Mexican, Brazilian, Vietnamese, Thai, etc etc than to find a decent French meal. But.
This is Paris still.
So I will dry my clothes (or that's the plan) and seek out Toulouse-Lautrec.
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The d'Orsay is very good. It houses Realism, Symbolism, Impressionism, (some) Post Impressionism, the Barbizon School, something they call Naturalism and three or four other movements that I probably had to know in art school, but which slides I slept through.

I saw Van Goghs and it pained me that Dancehall was not there with me. No, not Starry Night, but two of his self portraits, the portrait of the red-haired guy on the blue background, several landscapes, a handful of early works that are very interesting in terms of showing progression to a mature style. No sunflowers. I ached to have her see them. She should see them.
Saw another fucking haystack. Thank god there was only one. Monet. Bah.
Hey look, it's another fucking haystack:
That being said, I must admit that I appreciated a series he did of the Rouen Cathedral. The use of light was....okay, it was brilliant. I was impressed with the impasto surface texture, especially since the paintings (20" x 28" -- nothing to sneeze at) were done plein air. Okay, they were good. They were
really good.
Below is a flashless photo of terrible quality of some (okay) brilliant paintings by Monet:
The haystacks are still annoying. I am artsnobby about it.
And for the crowds of people, I wonder if five of them knew
why those Rouen paintings were so good. Or if they're really looking in that five seconds apiece. I understand people who "don't get modern art". I like them better, because they're making the effort and LOOKING. That, I can work with.
I enjoyed the Renoir room. All fluffy bunny, but sophisticated use of color. Loved the Cezannes.
But the best for me were the Toulouse-Lautrecs, which Nancy Dancehall also would have loved. GOD, they were wonderful. Such confidence, even with a size 14 brush. The gestures were exceptional -- that little man may have drunk a lot of absinthe but when he wasn't drinking, he was drawing his knucklebones off. You don't get that good without work. Without solid, consistent studio time. ("Studio" can also mean cafe-sketching.) (Isn't art fantastic?) Amazing captured expressions of figures and very complex choices in color. Bold. Ballsy. I lay my pathetic brush DOWN for anyone who can pull off acid aqua on siena. He did it in a way that brought attention to the figure, completely pushing the gob of acid aqua into the
background and this dude did it in the 1890s.

Da-umn.
Above is a small detail from a 6' x 9'ish work on paper. I could not photograph anything in the room with the aqua blob, so you'll have to take my word for it.One square centimeter can tell you how many parsecs you are from bein on those walls after you're dead.
I figure I'm about 12 away.
What blew me away most was a smallish (14" x 18") pastel on that rough brown bag stuff that was prevalent here at the time. Was among his Moulin Rouge best. Two figures in a bed -- all you could see was their sleeping heads. It was
perfect. 1894. Their faces managed to capture hard living and the sweetness of oblivion of sleep and the utter fragility and transience of our relationships to each other. It wasn't a "whore and her john". It wasn't even this man and this woman. It was me and it was you and it was every person you've ever woken up next to at some point in time.
This link goes to the Musee d'Orsay website to view the image. I took a photograph of it, but the quality is of course, terrible. The quality of the online image is better, but nothing at all compared to what it is to stand before the work itself.Le lit, 1894Broke my heart and then filled it right back up again.
It hit the way those few works do...the Siquieros in Mexico City...the Pieta Rondanini in Milan...the Moses my first trip to Rome, anything by Remedios Varo. There are others. Works like that aren't simply the reason to make art. They are the reason to keep living at all. A gesture of something so human, so universal, so ...US and so TRUE that is perfectly comprehensible in one single image.
Just tore my heart right out and put something better back...something made of light and color and sound. Instead of my guts squishing in my ribcage, there's this incendiary brilliant thing that's so much larger than the space I have for it and I just....want to give that away.
Isn't that crazy?
This guy, this short little alcoholic French guy...he can do that with his hands across an ocean of space and time.
I don't think it was just me about this drawing, either. A British couple behind me also stood for awhile, considering it. She said, "Look at that -- the sweet sleep of a prostitute. Isn't it lovely?"
See? Wasn't just me.
LOVED. IT.
****
There was a Weegee exhibit in town, but the museum is ferme. Bummer. Love Weegee. Big influence on Duane Michals, who, of course, was a big and is a influence on my pithy little photography.

I got a E5 chocolat thing, and took a picture of it before I ate it ALL.
I have decided that any Parisian who looks at me sidelong for not speaking French returns to neutral if I speak Italian to them. It works.
**********
I'm at an Indian Tandoori restaurant. I'm still a little cranky, and tamarind chutney over samosas is ameliorating it beautifully.
The Rodin Museum was WONDERFUL. Huge space with massive, gorgeous gardens so you can fully appreciate his bronzes sitting on a bench. Small fountains, meticulous greenery. The rose gardens are still (in late Sept) blooming as large as my open hand. I smelled lots of them.

Rodin did many busts, too, and a lot of erotic sculpture. Who knew? (Not anyone who studied art in my Catholic college, I suppose.) I can see why he's regarded as such a French treasure...the man earned his acre of flowing gardens museum. Angelo he is not, but he doesn't want to be. These are modern figure sculptures. My view had been that after Angelo (and Donatello before him), figure sculpture was done. Angelo said all that could have been said about it. I might be wrong in this, now that I've seen Rodin. It has the emotion of Donatello. Most of Angelo's sculptures are modeled after the classical era and are therefore stoic in both upper- and lower-case use of the word. Nothing about Rodin is stoic or Stoic, it is all profoundly Romantic.

Poor bastard had to have read Rousseau and Rimbaud. (French guys.) Speaking of hell (
A Season in Hell, Rimbaud), his
Gates of Hell were fascinating. Interesting bookend to Ghiberti's doors I just saw again last week. There's Lucifer at the top, in the same pose as the
Thinker and all these babies cryin and demons falling and humans screaming. And people kissing. Curious. Again, I wished Bex had been with me. She would have totally dug it.
After Rodin, I headed back to Pere Lachaise. It seemed silly to be so close and not go visit Jim Morrison's grave. Beautiful cemetery. Once again, I find myself in a cemetery and have no charcoal or paper for rubbings. You might be mildly surprised how often that can happen to a girl like me.

I thought of Aaron, of course, for the usual list of reasons. He would have loved it and I wonder if he'd been there. I know he doesn't go to Graceland anymore (cemetery in Chicago, no relationship to Elvis). I haven't been back, either.
No grass in Pere Lachaise as the monuments -- not graves -- are piled atop each other, all in different dates. I was in an area with nothing older than 1750, and as recent as 2004. Some monuments has filigree stonework that echoed Milan's Duoma. Some were plain black slabs that shone in the September rain. I took a lot of photos and missed Aaron terribly. I could have walked another hour or two, even with just my crappy E5 umbrella.


I went to Jim Morrison's grave, because it was the mecca of it that interested me. I like the Doors as much as anybody, but I'm hardly a devotee. A small cluster of the faithful were huddled on the ground. Some had umbrellas, some just had iPods. We were all quiet. The monument itself is fairly plain, 1943 - 1972? 71? It is surrounded by barriers, though an armful or three of flowers managed to grace the grave. The mausolea around the grave had been obviously scrubbed clean, but years of carved graffiti was still eviden. People still write upon them.
"We still ride the snake with you, Jim!"
Jim's ridin some worms right now, buddy. I'm sorry, was that disrespectful? Well, I didn't say it out
loud. Everyone was quiet.
Some guy in a pageboy cap and jean jacket; I'd say about 40, was standing nearby, sniffling. He rolled himself a joint.
I smiled. It was time to go. I saw what I'd stopped by for.
I went back to the hotel to crash. Off to the Eiffel Tower tonight.